"Women in the Kitchen: Twelve Essential Cookbook Writers Who Defined the Way We Eat, from 1661 to Today"--culinary historian Anne Willan traces the origins of American cooking through profiles of twelve essential women cookbook writers—from Hannah Woolley in the mid-1600s to Fannie Farmer, Julia Child, and Alice Waters—highlighting their key historical contributions--includes recipes (see my review)

 

Women in the Kitchen: Twelve Essential Cookbook Writers Who Defined the Way We Eat, from 1661 to Today

Anne Willan, multi-award-winning culinary historian, cookbook writer, cooking teacher, and founder of La Varenne Cooking School in Paris, explores the lives and work of women cookbook authors whose important books have defined cooking over the past three hundred years. Beginning with the first published cookbook by Hannah Woolley in 1661, up to Alice Waters today, these women, and books, created the canon of the American table.

Focusing on the figures behind the recipes, Women in the Kitchen traces the development of American home cooking from the first, early colonial days to transformative cookbooks by Fannie Farmer, Irma Rombauer, Julia Child, Edna Lewis, and Marcella Hazan. Willan offers a short biography of each influential woman, including her background, and a description of the seminal books she authored. These women inspired one another, and in part owe their places in cooking history to those who came before them.

Featuring fifty original recipes, as well as updated versions Willan has tested and modernized for the contemporary kitchen, this engaging narrative seamlessly moves through history to help readers understand how female cookbook authors have shaped American cooking today.

MY REVIEW: "Women in the Kitchen: Twelve Essential Cookbook Writers Who Defined the Way We Eat, from 1661 to Today", by culinary historian Anne Willan, spans a time frame of more than 350 years and offers an enlightening look at a dozen great women and the great food they prepared. While cooking terms, techniques, trends, and tastes have certainly changed through the years (centuries), the love of cooking and sharing food is timeless. The author, who has been cooking professionally for 60 years and operated a Paris-based cooking school, writes with a great love of subject and an expansive knowledge of cooking and those who cook. The twelve women are each featured in a brief biography accompanied by several of their own recipes. Here's a sampler of what you'll find: Hannah Woolley (1622-1675)--"Savory Pumpkin and Apple Pie"; Hannah Glasse (1708-1770)--"Rose Petal Syrup"; Amelia Simmons (dates unknown)--"Corn Griddle Cakes"; Maria Rundell (1745-1828)--"Potato Yeast Rolls"; Lydia Child (1802-1880) --"Thanksgiving Pudding"; Sarah Rutledge (1782-1855)--"Golden Chicken"; Fannie Farmer (1857-1915)--"Bread Pudding with Raisins"; Irma Rombauer (1877-1962)--"Never-Fail Dinner Rolls"; Julia Child (1912-2004)--"Coq Au Vin"; Edna Lewis (1906-2006)--"Brown Sugar Caramel Pie"; Marcella Hazan (1924-2013)--"Polenta with Italian Sausages"; and Alice Waters (born 1944)--"Mango Salad with Chile Pepper". While these women represent a variety of cultures and levels of fame, each of them is a fascinating trailblazer in their own right. Author Anne Willan not only shines a spotlight on these wonderful women, she gives us a compelling look at almost four centuries of culinary history. As a child, I was taught to cook by my beloved Gran, who was also a very knowledgeable, intuitive and gifted cook. Over 50 years later, I am still at home in the kitchen, and I love to read and collect cookbooks. I greatly enjoyed "Women in the Kitchen".

Book Copy Gratis Scribner Books

Reviews

 

“Both cooks and historians will eagerly tuck into this cleverly conceived, well-researched collection.”—Publishers Weekly

"An edifying survey of 12 women whose groundbreaking cookbooks span some 350 years. Ms. Willan enriches her social history with a few of each woman’s most tempting recipes."—Heller McAlpin, The Wall Street Journal

“Most of the cooking of the world is done by women. I myself was taught by women cooks, my mother and aunts ran their own restaurants. Women in the Kitchen is an enlightening, fascinating journey with the formidable women cooks who made history by creating the rich and complex cuisine of today’s America.”—Jacques Pépin 

“Anne Willan, one of the great cookbook authors of our times, pays tribute to her predecessors and a few contemporaries in this glorious book that celebrates the achievements of women in the kitchen and on the page. Replete with recipes, historic and updated for modern cooks, Women in the Kitchen is nothing less than an absolute delight.”—Ken Albala, Professor of History, University of the Pacific

“This beautifully curated collection makes a strong case for the importance of cookbooks and the power of women’s voices. Anne Willan shows how female cookbook writers from the seventeenth century to the present have been in the vanguard of progressive change. Her twelve engaging chapters explore the history of cookbooks and give us a taste of each era in delectably modernized recipes. This is a book for both library and kitchen.”—Darra Goldstein, Founding Editor of Gastronomica

“Anne Willan reminds us that the cookbook authors who really have shaped the way we live in our home’s kitchens predominantly have been women. With biographical sketches of a dozen of the most important writers, ranging from 17th century Hannah Woolley to contemporary Alice Waters, she brings their work to life. And even more fun, she includes sample recipes from each, updated to work for modern cooks.”—Russ Parsons, author of How to Pick a Peach

"Lyon was the capital of “les mères” and as a young chef I was blessed to work at La Mère Blanc, a female dominated kitchen. The graceful, casual, yet refined approach to cooking was unforgettable for me. Anne’s book, brings me back to the sensibility and devotion of a simple and soulful cuisine."—Daniel Boulud, Chef & Restaurateur

"Noteworthy... traces the development of American cuisine via the contributions of 12 female cookbook writers."—The New York Times

"Examines the recipes of a dozen cooks who made groundbreaking contributions across the food industry... these women reshaped the practice of home cooking and broke barriers in the male-dominated food industry."—Smithsonian Magazine

"Willan has melded her passions for culinary history, writing and teaching into her fascinating new book."—Chicago Tribune

“The stories of these women are both informative and inspiring, and the book is a reminder that the love of delicious food and the care and preparation that goes into it can create a common bond.” —Booklist

"A tasty, digestible volume... Willan draws from a deep well of knowledge and passion to craft a clearly written, cohesive chronicle of the evolution of American and British cuisine... Approachable and charming, this text allows readers to learn about the lineage of women cooks while participating in it." —Kirkus Reviews

 

 

Anne Willan

 

 

 

Anne Willan has had an extraordinary career in the culinary arts and is recognized as one of the world's preeminent authorities on French cooking. She founded École de Cuisine La Varenne in Paris in 1975.

Inducted into the James Beard Foundation Awards Hall of Fame for her "body of work" in May, 2013, Anne has more than 50 years of experience as a teacher, author and culinary historian. She has written more than 30 books, including the influential La Varenne Pratique and the 17-volume, photo-illustrated Look and Cook series, showcased in a 26-part PBS program which she hosted. Her books have been translated into more than two dozen foreign language editions.

In July, 2014, Anne was awarded the rank of Chevalier of the French Legion of Honor for her accomplishments in promoting the gastronomy of France. As a teacher, Anne has given cooking demonstrations and lectures throughout North America as well as Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and Chile, and appeared often on television programs. Anne's book, The Cookbook Library: The Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook (University of California Press, 2012), has received many accolades, including the prestigious Gourmand Hall of Fame Award and the Jane Grigson Award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). Anne's recent induction into the James Beard Foundation Awards Hall of Fame for "body of work" puts her alongside an exclusive set of food world legends including Julia Child and Elizabeth David. Anne's memoir, One Soufflé at a Time: A Memoir with Recipes (St. Martin's Press, 2013), won the 2014 IACP Award for Literary Food Writing.

Born in Newcastle, England, Anne received her master's degree from Cambridge University, then studied and taught cooking in London and Paris before moving to the United States, becoming a citizen in 1973. Early in her career Anne was an associate editor at Gourmet magazine and was the food editor at the Washington Star newspaper. From 1994-2010, Anne wrote food columns for the Los Angeles Times and Tribune Media Services International. She was elected to the Who's Who of Food and Beverage in America in 1986 and was honored in 1995 both as Grande Dame of Les Dames d'Escoffier International and with the Silver Spoon Award from Food Arts magazine. In 1999, the IACP recognized Anne with its prestigious Lifetime Achievement award, and she was elected to the World Food Media Hall of Fame in Australia. Bon Appétit named Anne as Cooking Teacher of the Year and the Philadelphia Book and Cook Festival honored her with their Toque Award in 2000. In June 2018, Anne was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award from Guild of Food Writers.

Anne is an honorary trustee of the IACP's Culinary Trust and serves an Emeritus Advisor for The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, as well as on the Advisory Board of Zester Daily, a website reporting on the culture of food and drink around the world. She was President of the IACP from 1990-1991 and Treasurer of the IACP Foundation (now The Culinary Trust) from 1999-2003. Anne has five grandchildren and divides her time between London and the Southwest of France. For more information about Anne, her books, and La Varenne, please visit www.lavarenne.com. To follow Anne on Facebook and/or Twitter, search @AnneWillan.